Richard Bradford, chairman of the Restaurant Association and the Earl of Bradford, defends the charge.
"No service charge is compulsory, it can only ever be suggested," he says. "It actually works out better. If it was included in the price of the meal, the customer would have to pay VAT on it, and the restaurant would have to pay national insurance.
"Staff have to be adequately rewarded for the work that they do."
Paying staff adequately is the job of the employer. Not of the customer. And staff, if not employers, do have to pay NI on tips in some cases.
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